Terms & Conditions
-All sales are final. Some items may be returned (unused) within 30 days and are subject to a 20% restocking fee.
-No refunds on engine deposits
-ZSR Engines, LLC is not liable for any typographical errors and reserves the right to refuse listed pricing
-ZSR Engines, LLC is not liable for any injuries or damage in the performance application of its products
-Due to the nature of the performance industry, ZSR cannot offer a warranty on any items. If you are unhappy with a product, please contact us immediately and we will do everything we can to make you happy.
-All shipping quotes and charges applied on this website are for inside the lower 48 USA states only. You will be billed separately on international shipments.
NEW ENGINE BREAK-IN:
Thanks for purchasing an engine from ZSR. Here are a few things that you need to do to assure your new engine is ready to run.
If you purchased a bare block, it will arrive clean and ready assemble. I recommend wiping the block down with a lint-free rag to remove the anti-rust product we use for shipping. The block will have all plugs and cam bearings installed. We use a camshaft to test that the bearings are installed correctly, but still recommend you test-fit your camshaft before moving forward with any assembly. If you purchased a Dart or Ford Racing block from us, there should be an instruction sheet included from them. We only use ARP main studs and the torque specs can be found at ARP-bolts.com.
If you purchased a shortblock, the same applies with the camshaft test fit (If you didn’t buy one through ZSR). If you did not purchase the shortblock with the oil pump/pan installed, you MUST check oil pump pickup-to-pan clearance. This is a very important step and many times the pickups need attention to get the proper clearance (.300-.500” clearance). I typically use a standard volume pump for most applications, but feel free to get ahold of me and we can discuss what pump would work the best for your setup. I strongly suggest a heavy duty pump driveshaft regardless of pump used. Be sure to check piston-to-valve clearance when installing cylinder heads and also to measure for proper pushrod length. Cleanliness cannot be stressed enough with engine assembly.
If you purchased a longblock, depending on options you chose, you will need to do a few small things (possibly installing intake, valve covers, etc). We do not ship engines with oil in them typically so be absolutely sure that you check oil level.
FOR ALL BUILDS: You must check your invoice and be sure that you are using the proper balancer and flywheel/flexplate for you engine. We use “zero”, 28oz external, and from time to time we use 50oz external. Your invoice will say what your build requires and use of the wrong parts will DESTROY your engine in short order.
You MUST prime the oil system before you start the engine. You can either use a priming tool (available at most part stores) or you can tape a ¼” socket to an extension and use it to turn the oil pump shaft counter-clockwise with a drill (be very careful to not drop the socket). I recommend running the drill for 30 second intervals and rotate the engine by hand in between revolutions until you have oil at every rocker arm. Typically an oil system should be primed fully within a few minutes. Feel free to contact me for oil recommendations for your engine.
For the actual break-in of the engine, it will vary slightly depending on what style camshaft your engine is using. 99% of engines we do use a roller camshaft which requires no break-in. Follow your camshaft manufacturers recommendation for flat tappet camshafts if you are using one. Once you have the engine started, the actual break-in is very simple. Be sure to not wash the cylinders down with fuel as it is very hard on the rings. Get a timing light on the engine ASAP. Check for any leaks or unusual sounds. Once all is checked, go and drive the engine with varying RPM’s and do a few short pulls to help settle the rings. I do not recommend driving long distances at a continuous RPM, nor do I believe in any 500 mile break-in rule. After a few short pulls and a few minutes of run time, the rings should be completely sealed up and the engine is ready to race. I also suggest not using synthetic oil on the first run of an engine. I recommend changing the oil fairly quickly (100 miles or after first race day). If possible, try to do the first start up and drive without boost or with the lowest possible boost if you are using a power adder.
****If you have ANY questions please do not hesitate to email Zach@ZSRengines.com****
We enjoy seeing customer vehicles so feel free to post on our Facebook page @zsrengines. Thanks again for your business; it really means the world to me. Again, don’t hesitate to contact me if you have any questions.
Zach Smith
Owner, ZSR Engines
If you purchased a bare block, it will arrive clean and ready assemble. I recommend wiping the block down with a lint-free rag to remove the anti-rust product we use for shipping. The block will have all plugs and cam bearings installed. We use a camshaft to test that the bearings are installed correctly, but still recommend you test-fit your camshaft before moving forward with any assembly. If you purchased a Dart or Ford Racing block from us, there should be an instruction sheet included from them. We only use ARP main studs and the torque specs can be found at ARP-bolts.com.
If you purchased a shortblock, the same applies with the camshaft test fit (If you didn’t buy one through ZSR). If you did not purchase the shortblock with the oil pump/pan installed, you MUST check oil pump pickup-to-pan clearance. This is a very important step and many times the pickups need attention to get the proper clearance (.300-.500” clearance). I typically use a standard volume pump for most applications, but feel free to get ahold of me and we can discuss what pump would work the best for your setup. I strongly suggest a heavy duty pump driveshaft regardless of pump used. Be sure to check piston-to-valve clearance when installing cylinder heads and also to measure for proper pushrod length. Cleanliness cannot be stressed enough with engine assembly.
If you purchased a longblock, depending on options you chose, you will need to do a few small things (possibly installing intake, valve covers, etc). We do not ship engines with oil in them typically so be absolutely sure that you check oil level.
FOR ALL BUILDS: You must check your invoice and be sure that you are using the proper balancer and flywheel/flexplate for you engine. We use “zero”, 28oz external, and from time to time we use 50oz external. Your invoice will say what your build requires and use of the wrong parts will DESTROY your engine in short order.
You MUST prime the oil system before you start the engine. You can either use a priming tool (available at most part stores) or you can tape a ¼” socket to an extension and use it to turn the oil pump shaft counter-clockwise with a drill (be very careful to not drop the socket). I recommend running the drill for 30 second intervals and rotate the engine by hand in between revolutions until you have oil at every rocker arm. Typically an oil system should be primed fully within a few minutes. Feel free to contact me for oil recommendations for your engine.
For the actual break-in of the engine, it will vary slightly depending on what style camshaft your engine is using. 99% of engines we do use a roller camshaft which requires no break-in. Follow your camshaft manufacturers recommendation for flat tappet camshafts if you are using one. Once you have the engine started, the actual break-in is very simple. Be sure to not wash the cylinders down with fuel as it is very hard on the rings. Get a timing light on the engine ASAP. Check for any leaks or unusual sounds. Once all is checked, go and drive the engine with varying RPM’s and do a few short pulls to help settle the rings. I do not recommend driving long distances at a continuous RPM, nor do I believe in any 500 mile break-in rule. After a few short pulls and a few minutes of run time, the rings should be completely sealed up and the engine is ready to race. I also suggest not using synthetic oil on the first run of an engine. I recommend changing the oil fairly quickly (100 miles or after first race day). If possible, try to do the first start up and drive without boost or with the lowest possible boost if you are using a power adder.
****If you have ANY questions please do not hesitate to email Zach@ZSRengines.com****
We enjoy seeing customer vehicles so feel free to post on our Facebook page @zsrengines. Thanks again for your business; it really means the world to me. Again, don’t hesitate to contact me if you have any questions.
Zach Smith
Owner, ZSR Engines
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